I’ve been wanting to hike up Ulsanbawi since I saw it in all it’s glory while my parents were visiting. I went up in July 2022 in the fog and rain but wasn’t able to see any views from the top so I didn’t post anything. Today, the weather was perfect. I also revisited the waterfall hike near the entrance to the park. This was day 2 of a five-day trip to Sokcho.
Ulsanbawi hike
I woke to a clear view of the mountains from my bed. I packed my lunch and drove 10 minutes to Seoraksan National Park car park. It was 6,000 won for the day and because I had a small Kia Morning, I got a cute little spot with an easy route out of the already-pretty-full lot!
The very, very first time I did this hike has gone from my memory! It was June 2005 and I went with the Adventure Korea travel group. I only know this because I came across old photos! Then I went back in 2022 after my parents returned to the UK, but foggy views only. For today’s trip, I recorded everything as the early autumn weather was perfect!
Walking into the park is always breathtaking. What makes this park so memorable is that the entrance area is so wide and flat due to the huge river. This emphasises the the peaks of the ranges. I headed off at a quick pace wanting to get ahead of the busy groups. Past the temple and then onto the trail.
There was construction work on the main trail, and the diversion went through the forest on the left of the stream. It was a little harder work as the path was rocky and uneven, but basically easy. Then I was then heading up at a steady incline on rocky steps taking a few breathers. Eventually, you get to Gyejoam (계조암) a hermitage with the famous Heundeulbawi rock (흔들바위) that you can wobble, but is impossible to roll.
After that there are more rocky step until you get to the pale yellow foot of Ulsanbawi (울산바외). Here, the steps start and go on and on! Thankfully, this gives you a real sense of progress since you are basically ascending a cliff staircase, and it’s right there in front of you! Just don’t overdo it, breath steadily, and take as many breathers as you need; find your pace and stick to it.
About half way up the trees start to disappear and you can look back into the park. It’s fantastic, even down there! The further up you go, when you look back during you breaks more and more of the ranges behind you show themselves. The final parts of the stairway take you onto the side of the rocks and it’s an awesome feeling. At the top, there are three viewing decks to visit. I could look over the valley to where I was the day before on Seongindae (성인대).
I stayed for some time, had my lunch, and took a bunch of photos. before making my way back down.
I got some date tea at Seolhyan (설향), a teahouse I’d visited with my parents in 2022. It’s a lovely spot next to the wide riverbed. Then I walked to the restaurant area and had some bibimbap and preeped for my next hike of the day.
Biryong and Towangseong waterfalls Hike
Rested, I walked back towards the park entrance. I’d contemplated doing the Biseondae trail but decided I wanted to see more water, so I headed to the Biryong Waterfall trail instead. I’ve actually done the waterfall hike before (Sept 2005 with my parents), but I don’t remember doing it!
The trail starts on concrete roads next to the river, then goes into a forest along a stream.
Then there are steps and walkways as the valley gets steeper and narrower. There are very deep pools at the base of some of the waterfalls you see on the way. At one point is an impressive suspension bridge past some sheer cliffs.
Biryong waterfall is a thin flow of water into a pool. It’d be a lovely place to swim but this is protected land! Here you can stop and head back, or attempt the 400m hike up stairs to the Towangseong waterfall observatory. You can’t actually go to Towangseong waterfall, only see it in the distance far away from the view point. So, up the steps I went. It’s hard work if you don’t pace yourself; there were many people resting and looking out of breath on the way. I took it easy!
At the top, the views across the valley and the distant peaks it quite something. Towangseong waterfall is very tall and in three sections. It’s probably about 1km in length over the sections. It’s hard to see, so use the telescope up there. I wasn’t expecting to see water, but through the lens you can see lots of water pouring down. The thing is, it seems to be starting at the very top of the mountain peak, so I wonder where the water is coming from… Is there a tap up there?! After resting, I made my way down and enjoyed the reverse view. At sections on the way, you can see all the way to the Sokcho, the sea, and Seorak Bridge. I got back to the park entrance at about 15:30. What a great hike.
Daon Cafe, Seolbingjeong, and Craft Root
I drove to Cafe Daon (다온) nearby. I’d stayed in this small village in 2022 on my rainy solo trip. There’s a rooftop, so I sat up there with my coffee and let some of the hiking stiffness go. I took photos, checked my phone, and thought about dinner.
Nearby was a makguksu restaurant. Places close relatively early out here, so best to get it when you can! I drove over and parked at Seolbingjeong Makguksu (속초설빙정막국수) and was the only one there. The food was nice and was delivered by robot.
Back at the hotel, I showered, rested, then went to get a craft beer at Craft Root () next to the hotel. I was the only person there! Tuesday night, eh? Am I right? I wandered back to the hotel exploring a back street on the way. I walked to where I’d seen an interesting looking cafe on my map (I’d have coffee there the next morning). There were other resorts on this street and they seemed shut, or shutdown? Hard to tell. At my hotel, there was a lot of noise; chanting, speech giving, and other large-group people noises. There was some kind of strange sounding event taking place on the ninth floor in on of the wings of the resort building. In the hotel, I took the elevator up there and poked my head around the elevator door; yes some kind of event, but I was too shy (nervous!) to go take a look; what if it was some kind of religious cult!
Back at my room, I watched some thought about tomorrow’s transition day; rain was forecasted so the next day was to relax and make my way to my second accommodation. Netflix, called Romana, and
Places visited this trip