Namhae is a pretty island on the south coast of Korea, with Yeosu on the west and Tongyeong on the east. I spent four days there, and here’s what I got up to! This post details the first day: my journey to the island from Seoul, and driving around before heading to my accommodation. Links to the other days on this trip are below.
Day 2: Geumsan mountain hike to Boriam temple / Day 3: Bakery, Butterfly Park, two art museums, Daraengi Village (part 1) / Day 4: Daraengi Village (part 2), Barista Kim cafe
This is my second trip here; I first visited in 2017 with Romana.
Getting to Namhae
Bus is the best option; there are no KTXs running here, plus the big, long-distance coaches are super comfortable! Busses from Seoul leave from the Nambu Bus terminal (남부터미널) multiple times a day. The terminal is on subway Line 3 (orange) and is south of the other main Express Bus Terminal. I used the T-Money GO app to book a ticket. My bus left around 7 a.m. and it takes about four hours. There’s a fifteen-minute stop at the Ginseng Land rest and service centre along the way, there and back!
Getting around
I didn’t use public transport on the island. There are busses but if you’re going to use the public transport, you’re going to need a lot of planning; I recommend renting a car. I’d booked a SOCAR for the duration as I’d be going all over the island. That said, there are hiking trails that people through-hike, and one of the guests I met was cycling around the island.
I had a lovely grilled fish lunch at Namhae Jeontong Market (남해전통시장) at a place called Bongjeong Sikdang (식당); a large setting for about 12,000 won! I bought some food supplies at a nearby supermarket then drove north west to mooch around.
Yi Sun Sin Memorial Park 이순신순국공원
This historical figure is revered throughout Korea and while exploring the southern part of Korea, you’re going to encounter a lot of parks, shrines, statues, and museums, all in recognition of his defeat of the Japanese. I’ve seen Yi Sun Sin related areas from Mokpo to Busan! Anyway, this is the largest park I’ve seen dedicated to him. There is also an outcrop of land said to have been one of his outposts while leading the defence of Korea. This may also have been the place that he died, hence the cool detailed metal sculpture of a musket pellet passing through a heart!
Noryang-ri 노량리: Bridges, harbour and blossoms
I drove north to a place on a hill near two bridges to the mainland, and stopped at Noryang Park (노량공원) hoping to get a coffee. The café was closed, but there was a nice view down to the coast and the bridges. The hillside was covered in yellow flowers too; very pretty! I drove down and parked up near the waterfront and wandered around. I took an elevator to the top of the area where the bridge is and enjoyed the view back to the waterfront and the bridges. I took a look at the bridges too, because…why not! Then back to the car and I drove east a little to find some blossom streets next to the coast (왕지벚꽃길 and 설천 벚꽃길). It was extremely pretty with lots of cheery cherry blossom trees and yellow flowers next to the sea. Time to Insta…
Orang Guesthouse 오랑
I headed south towards my accommodation, and stopped at some colourful fields on the way by Daesacheon (대사천). It’s a stream with trail that’s south of the Yi Sun Sin park on the west. I then stopped back in town to find sandwiches for my hike tomorrow. Namhae town is NOT easy to park in! There are lots of cars in the town centre and lots of parking wardens ready to take your cash. I didn’t find a free-of-charge spot so parked some ways away from where I needed to be. Got my sandwiches then headed to the guesthouse.
Orang Guesthouse (오랑) is a one storey, flat-roofed brick house looking onto garlic fields, with hill front and back. The host got me parked and settled in. I was staying in a four-bunk room for about 30,000 won a night. The bunk was comfortable and warm, and the house was cosily decorated. The host said later that he’s a guitar teacher.
Lounge 32 coffee shop
I drove into the nearby village to look for a cafe and restaurant but everything seemed to have closed at around 5pm. I drove onto a place near the sea, an area with a few large accommodations and found Lounge 32, a cafe with attached convenience store and accommodation. I sat on the terrace for awhile looking out to sea; very nice. At the convenience store, I got some microwave food and some beers to have back at the guesthouse.
Both the hosts and the other guest were in the kitchen eating and chatting. I cooked my meals and joined them and we had a very pleasant chat before bed.
Places visited on this, and earlier trips (click the little ‘door’ icon to see the list):