I saw a beautiful misty rain views of farmland after hiking over Girinbong to a very unusual, old rice mill cafe. Later were Burgers at Aloha Burger then craft beers and salami at Nomadic Beer Garden.

DAY 5 OF my 7-day TRIP to Byeonsanbando and Jeonju

I took my suitcase to the new accommodation I’d secured for the next few nights, then set off hiking. My goal was the hill (Girinbong 기린봉) you can see from downtown Jeonju next to the river, and to end up at a quirky looking coffee shop I’d seen on Instagram.

Girinbong Mountain, Catholic Martyr Graveyard, Donggosa Temple

I walked through a very quiet hanok village which looked good in the morning, cloudy light. I got to the river and then the Hanbyeokdang Pavilion I’d seen a few days ago. Getting to a trailhead to Girinbong (기린봉) proved quite tricky with a few false starts; what were trail entrances on the map turned out to be unnavigable and parts of people’s private property. I eventually found a way up that seemed part of trail to some Christian related buildings. It turned out to be a Mother Mary statue in the hills, then something called the Catholic Martyr Graveyard. Then at the top, a stone cross dedicated to Catholic Martyrs. I didn’t read in detail, but I imagine Christians were persecuted for their faith in Korea in the past. From the rocky outcrop by the cross, there was a great view down into Jeonju Hanok Village. Also nearby was Donggosa Temple.

There were quite a few trails to choose from over this mountain so it seemed like it was a popular local hiking spot. I headed as directly east and due south as I could. Unfortunately, there was no rocky peak to clamber onto so no wider views, but it was a pleasant hike in the damp weather.

Saekjang Rice Mill

As I got off the mountain, I found myself walking along the main river again. I was wandering through a small village amongst rice paddies and other farmland. The houses looked nice; well spaced out and in good condition. It was just starting to rain again and the views of the mountain, the mist and rain through the village were quite lovely. I felt very calm.

I headed south and over the river to find the Saekjang Rice Mill (색장정미소). Only the pictures can describe it really; it was a ramshackle looking building that had obviously been some kind of farm house and storage facility. It had been kitted out inside for food and drinks, and some of the outhouses now were accommodation (I think). There were three floors, each one smaller than the last. The top attic space was accessible through a trap door opening and steep wooden steps; the top floor had a few 1980s posters for erotic films!

I ordered a sweet rice drink call sikhye, and an espresso topped vanilla ice cream (affogato). It was raining quite heavily now and so I stayed a while taking in all the knick-knacks and quirky interior.

I got a bus back to the hanok village in the now pouring rain, took a shower and a nap.

Aloha Burger and VSM Coffee Bar

I walked to Aloha Burger (알로하 버거) to eat before Romana arrived in Jeonju. They do very tasty burgers, so I would visit again! With about an hour to kill, I stopped off at VMS Coffee Bar (브이엠에스 커피) to drink and plan something to do when Romana arrived.

Nomadic Beer Garden

I met Romana at the station, then we got a cab into the hanok village and stashed her bag at the hanok. Then we walked to Nomadic Beer Garden (노매딕 비어가든) for some craft beers and a side dish of salami. We sat in the pleasant garden of the refurbished old hanok.

Places visited this trip (click the ‘door’ icon to see a list):