Hiking Dinosaur Ridge, Seoraksan

I spent two days on Seoraksan Mountain (설악산), hiking along the Dinosaur Ridge (공룡능선), sleeping at Huiungak Shelter (희운각대피소), then hiking back down past the waterfalls, streams, gorges and cliffs of Cheonbuldong Valley (천불동계곡). This post details the ridge hike and shelter stay. This was day two of a six-day trip to Sokcho (속초) and Gangneung (강릉).

Day 2 of my 6-day trip to Sokcho and Gangneung

Dinosaur Ridge, Seoraksan National Park

I ate a few things at the hostel around 04:30 and finished checking I had everything needed for the hike. Then I walked from Sokcho Station Hostel to Sokcho Intercity Bus Station and grabbed a cab. It was probably his first fare of the day. He got me to the entrance by 05:45, and after a quick breakfast snack on a bench near the cable car station, I headed off. I passed the places I was already familiar with (the big Buddha statue, the entrance to the temples, and the hanok cafe before bearing left along the Biseondae trail. The weather was bright and a little muggy. The streams had only a little water and the forest was lovely at this time of the morning.

The trail is concrete for much of the way. After about 1 km, the road stops and you walk along rock and wooden walkways. The rocky sides of the stream start to get taller and more impressive and eventually you get to Biseondae rock (비선대), the namesake of this part of the route. At the hut and gate, there are maps and signs with latest entry times. I was going to hike anti-clockwise around this route, so I took a right at the small intersection.

It immediately turns into steep steps! And this pretty much goes on until you turn off for the ridge section. Up the steep rock steps and looking back are some impressive sights. I was taking it slowly because of the weight of my pack and because I didn’t want to sweat too much to conserve water (it was getting more humid). I took lots of breaks and photos. Once the main rock steps stopped I had a longer break with my first sandwich at a large wooden rest area. I took my shoes off, too, since I didn’t want to get blisters. My feet cooled down nicely, and I did this a few times along the trail (it was definitely worth it!).

Around 11:00, I was finally starting the ridge section. It starts at a three-way intersection and rest area. I actually had a long break just before that point where I was investigated by a few little chipmunks. I fed them a few nuts. They were pretty bold, coming right up to my sock and taking a sniff! Cute

Bear left at the intersection and you’ll be on the Dinosaur Ridge. The trail is a mixture of trees and bare rock, with numerous ups and downs as you navigate along. You aren’t ever really traversing the tip of a ridge which is what I’d had in mind, more going just under the mini peaks, mostly on the southern side and occasionally at sections where you can see over to the northern side too. There’s not much to say here beyond the fact that there were pretty spectacular views of impressive rock formations, peaks, sweeping panoramic views across the range. With the blue skies and fast moving wispy clouds passing over and around you, you can imagine how in awe I was. my iPhone does its best, but you really have to go to appreciate its beauty and size.

There were quite a few hikers on the trail but it was never busy. I passed a few hikers multiple times, and there were about the same number coming in the opposite direction. I took plenty of breaks and tried took it easy knowing I had a bunk reserved at Huiungak shelter.

Gnarly bits

There were about three of four ‘sketchy’ sections, by which I mean parts where you need to use handrails on steep, tricky sections. Some were similar to the Y-Valley section on Bukhansan, but not quite as steep or exposed. If you’ve done that before, I think you’ll be okay. Just to add, at no point was I fearful of falling, but just so you know, some parts do require you to grip those rails firmly! I think on balance, going counter-clockwise (north west to south-east), there were more downward steep handrail sections, whereas as the upward parts were more genuine scrambles. I might be misremembering though! I mention this because I think going the opposite direction might suit some people more (personally, I’d rather go up steep sections with handrails, than down! Anyway, enough rambling!

The ridge section took about four hours (yes, slow!) and yes, it was tiring me out, especially after the mammoth step climb to get there! Eventually, and after more spectacular views, I got to a rock peak that was the start of the descent to the shelter. You can actually see the shelter in the distance in the trees. It took about thirty minutes from there since there were a few steep handrail sections that slowed me down.

Huiungak Shelter (희운각대피소)\

On the final 100 metres of trail to the shelter, is an observation deck; I saved that for later, I needed to rest! The shelter is pretty big, with two or three large, two-storey buildings joined together. Just outside the building was a tall guy who seemed to be guiding a group of non-Korean Asians. He urged me to go in front of him as he was explaining the shelter system in English to one of his group. I mention this because it turns out he was the YouTuber SkinnyHiker (I didn’t know that at the time, but I saw one of his posts on the Facebook king in Korea group, recognised him ad some of his group in the photos, plus the outside of the shelter. He made a video of his group hike which you can find on his channel.

You go inside the building to check in (not the kiosk style window outside), tell them your name (or show them your reservation message), they give you a slip of paper with your bunk number and point you in the right direction. You take your boots off before going to the dormitory (there are shoe lockers), and find your bunk. I didn’t really know what to expect and was surprised at how roomy the spaces were. The photos will show exactly what I mean. Its a room with upper and lower sleeping spaces, each space about the size of a queen size bed. The photo is the dorm I was in, but there’s a dorm on the floor above, too, and maybe in another annex, so lots of places. There isn’t any bedding (you bring your own), no personal lights or power outlets, but its actually quite cosy with plenty of room to sleep and keep your pack and sort out your belongings. The power outlets (one power strip!) are by the shoe lockers, so grab a socket while while you can. I had a lower bunk. I immediately changed into a clean t-shirt, underpants and socks, inflated my bedding (a lightweight Nemo), then went outside for a quick wander around the place. There is only a chemical toilet, no showers or running water. There are picnic tables by the main buildings, plus a few more by the (mostly dry) stream. There’s also a little hose that has diverted some of the stream water. At this time of the year though, it was running pretty slow. There were quite a lot of people at the shelter, even for a Monday night and more people were arriving.

There were quite a lot of excitable hikers unpacking the food they’d carried up there and were getting there pretty impressive meals ready. Here, you can use portable stoves. I overheard someone say that the shelter had run out of bottled water for sale…that was actually going to be my plan to get a quick wash! Oh, well. I just thank myself for actually persevering with carrying those three litres of liquids all the way here and not needing to gulp them down on the way here, thinking I could resupply at the shelter. Anyway, pin that piece of information! I got my sandwiches, some wet wipes, one of my water bottles and walked over the bridge to the steps that lead to the main peak of Seoraksan. On the steps, I used just enough water to soak the wet wipes and gave my face, neck, arms, and torso a good wipe down. What a relief I could get rid of all the sunblock and some of the grime before bed! Then I sat on some stone steps and had another sandwich and some buns. I had about a litre and a half of liquids left so I wasn’t too worried about the next day. After eating, I washed my hands and arms again at the little hose by the steam, as more and more hikers arrived.

I walked along to the observation deck I’d passed coming in The views were great. I could see the peak I’d started the descent from, down into the valley opposite, a huge rocky cliff face, and hills in the distance. There were clouds in the valley below me slowly winding their way through. Very pretty.

I had a short lie down at my bunk and maybe napped a bit. The dormitory isn’t gender segregated it turned out. One slightly annoyed guest yelled at a group quite excited group of ladies to keep the noise down as some people need to sleep (it was only about 8 o’clock!) . I Imagine, like me, people had come a long way and were also planning to get up before first light to see the sunrise from the peak. As it got a little darker, I went back to the deck and got some pretty amazing photos of the red skies as the sun went down. I stayed until the first few stars appeared. As it got darker, I could see head torches in the distance as hikers came down from the main peak trail and also from where I’d come from. I called Romana when I got to the shelter area again, then with earplugs in, went to sleep.