The island of Yokjido is known for spectacular coastal trails and a few mountain hikes so I spent the day there on a four-day trip to Tongyeong. I hiked up Cheonwangsan, visited Dessert Island cafe, then hiked to the three bridges on the coastal trail.
DAY 2 OF 4-DAY stay in Tongyeong
Getting in
For Yokjido, go to the main Tongyeong Passenger Ferry Terminal (통영항여객선터미널). It left at 6:50 (I think) and I got a return ticket for around 16:30 (although the assistant recommended I come back at 14:30). The ferry has different seating available but the best and cheapest is just to sit on the heated floor in the main cabin. You can lie down and nap! It arrived at about 8:20 and I walked up and down the harbour street to find some food.
I had pork and rice soup at 욕지 돼지국밥 (no map details, just get off the ferry and walk left to the north corner of the harbour. The place was open but the woman didn’t seem pleased to see me; she was doing here makeup! Once she served me, she continued doing her makeup. Food was good though!
Daegibong and Cheonwangsan Mountain hike
To do this hike, I cut through the village and headed upwards, following signs that mentioned the monorail (it’s closed down due to a derailment accident and I don’t think there are any plans to reopen it.). On the way were some lovely views back down to the harbour and also to the southern side. You approach the abandoned monorail station from above the trail. It looks very modern, not that old. I don’t know the story of why it closed, and I’m guessing there isn’t enough of a financial incentive to reopen it. You go through the monorail station car park and onto the main road and continue heading west and south. Great scenic views. I saw a luxury house being built plus my first glimpse of one of the suspension bridges across the water. At some point the path disappears so take care on the road!
You eventually come to Saecheonnyeon Memorial Park (새천년기념공원) which I think translates to 3 thousand years. That’s where I took a break and some photos. It’s a lovely spot with gorgeous sea views. The trailhead to the mountain is opposite; take care crossing the road as it’s on a blind curve. The hike is through forest with a number of rocky view points. I saw a couple of other hikers on the trail. The first main view point is on Daegibong near the upper monorail station. There’s a huge wooden deck with yellow crescent moon! Again, lovely views to the sea and surrounding mountains. Beautiful!
Onward then to Cheonwangsan peak. You go through more forest, then along a ridge. You’ll soon see the peak as there’s a huge dome radio tower on the top! I might be a radar weather station? You get to it going up a long staircase. Took a few breaks going up! And of course, great views!
Once off the peak, I headed towards Taegoam hermitage (태고암). I didn’t explore, but just mention it as a navigation aid! You then get to an intersection which leads on another peak (Yakgwabong 약과봉) or back to the harbour village. A friendly fire-watch ranger told me how long it’d take to get to the next peak (about an hour) so I decided to head to the harbour, take a break, then go to the coastal walk area.
Dessert Island cafe
The walk to the harbour takes you past a reservoir, a small residential area, a local school and big bright white church.
At the school entrance was a huge cherry blossom tree full of busy buzzing bees. You can just about hear them in the Instagram post:
I found a bakery cafe on Naver Maps called Dessert Island (디저트 아일랜드). It was white and blue, very Greek looking. I got an espresso doppio and an Earl Grey and lemon scone, then sat on the pavement seating. It was good. I left a review on Naver and added it to Google Maps.
Coastal walk and bridges
Then it was time to start my final destinations. I walked through the harbour again then took the northern coastal road heading east. Again, nice. I was heading to Mangdaebong as the last peak, so to save time, I cut inland and headed south up the hill and to the ridge. At the road, I found a trail heading east to the peak. There was a pavilion and lots of hikers’ ribbons. I had the sandwich I’d bought in Tongyeong and took a break. I headed back down the trail, then followed the road west until I came to a cafe. Saw some goats on the way! Didn’t stop at the cafe but that’s where you turn left to to to the coastal trail.
Once at the coast you’ll see the first suspension bridge (Chulleongdaro 욕지도 제1출렁다리). It crosses an impressive gorge. On the other side is a wide expanse of rock with I explored.
Back across the bridge then walked west along the coast marvelling a the lovely rock and seaside. The next bridge is quite a long way.
The final bridge is the one I saw while walking towards Saecheonnyeon Memorial Park earlier. This was the biggest bridge and was neat some impressive rocks and gaps to the sea!
From there is was an easy walk back to the harbour. On the way I passed a few places I’d been on my way to the mountain. The light of the late afternoon sun was making everything look extra nice. Also, I was pretty tired and looking forward to lying down on the boat! Walked ~20 km today! At the harbour, I bought a Heineken at a mart and sat on a bench by some palm trees and waited for the ferry. Back in Tonyeong, I showered then went to a samgyetang restaurant that I couldn’t get into yesterday.
I had a blister under one of my left toes. I knew this wouldn’t be good for my long Saryangdo hike the next day, so I used a pin (cleaned with an alcohol swab) and burst it. Gross! I put on ointment and a plaster and hoped for the best. Fortunately there were no negative side effects and the next day’s hike was fine!
Video
Places I visited on all my trips to Tongyeong. Click the ‘door’ icon on the left to see a list:
Awesome https://is.gd/tpjNyL